A nouvelle bistro in Paris

Seeing the success of Baby Bistros, in the mid-1990s many young and up-and-coming chefs decided to forgo the fancy restaurant part and start right off with a small, informal, relatively inexpensive trendy bistro.

L'Epi Dupin is perhaps the best, with fine modern bistro cuisine in an antique French setting of hewn beams and stone walls. The food runs to ultra-traditional rural French (by which I mean bits of the animal you might not normally eat), with lighter, modern alternatives like salmon carpaccio or spit-roasted grouse.

Service, while friendly, can be seriously inattentive.

Booking is recommended, and there are fantastic set-price menus from €33 to €49—plus a great-value lunch menu at €22.




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